Kaisergarten: a delicious meal in Munich March 31, 2009
Posted by pacejmiller in Food, Travel.Tags: beer, beer hall, delicious, dessert, dinner, Food, Kaisergarten, Kaiserstrasse, liver, lunch, Marienplatz, meal, Muncher Freiheit, Munich, restaurant, schnitzel, U-Bahn
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[Update: pictures added!]
There are hundreds of Beer Halls and places to enjoy Schnitzel in Munich, and it’s hard to decide which ones to go to when you have limited time. I guess it depends whether you just want to get drunk with a bunch of rowdy people, or you actually want to sit down and have a (relatively) quiet meal.
On our last night in Munich, we went to this wonderful little place called Kaisergarten ( a quiet place) (www.kaisergarten.com) at Kaiserstrasse 34. It’s a little further out from the city centre, but easily reachable by public transport. Simply catch the U-Bahn (U3 or U6) to Muncher Freiheit and then it’s just a 5 minute walk (when you exit, head south along Leopoldstrasse towards the city centre (Marienplatz) and turn right when you see Kaiserstrasse – it’s just a short stroll from there).

Inside Kaisergarten (note: the flash makes it look brighter)
We came across Kaisergarten by accident. I recall finishing a shower in Freiburg and saw my wife busily jotting down details on a piece of paper while staring intently at the TV screen. “We have to go to this place,” she said. Turns out Kaisergarten was promoted on some good food show, and as luck would have it, the restaurant was in Munich and we were heading there next!
The inside was dim, but nice and warm with wooden tables and benches, clean walls painted in white and green, a cool-looking bar along one side and a wooden case covering the entire back wall with dozens of squares holding hundreds of bottles of wine. They don’t have English menus (as far as we know) but the waitresses all speak perfect English and are more than happy to help explain the dishes. We went with the dishes we saw on TV, which were, of course, the favorites. The first was a giant veal schnitzel that’s bigger than your face, with roast potatoes underneath. The best part were the two sauces – one white and with a tang of mustard, and the other red with the sweet and sour of berries. It also comes with a brilliant fresh salad. The second was liver with sautéed onions and mashed potatoes, also delicious.
Oh, and the film crew was back, and they were filming some dude having the liver dish. Despite being packed to the throat, there was always room for dessert. We got the one they recommended, another popular one. It’s kind of like mashed up sweet pancakes with apple dipping sauce on the side. It’s delightful but extraordinarily big. They allowed us to take the leftovers away. A word of warning: it takes 45 minutes to prepare so order it early if you want it!
In all, the best meal I had in Munich. The mains were around 18 Euros each, the dessert was 9.50. Coupled with 2 non-alcoholic drinks, the total bill came up to around 52 Euros. Not down at the cheap end but you can certainly do a lot worse in expensive Munich.

Sensational Salad

Sensational Liver (doesn't taste like liver)

Sensational Schnitzel with Sensational Sauces

You guessed it, Sensational Dessert (sauce not in view)
A Few Quick Thoughts on Italy and Vatican City March 24, 2009
Posted by pacejmiller in Food, Religion, Travel.Tags: Altare della Patria, attractions, best coffee, best gelato, best pizza, Cafe, Catholic, Catholicism, coffee, Colosseum, Florence, gelato, holiday, Il Vittoriano, Italy, Last Judgment, Leaning Tower, Leaning Tower of Pisa, Michelangelo, Michelangelo's David, must visit, must-see, Old Bridge, Old Bridge Gelato, Palantine Hill, Palatino, Pisa, pizza, Pope, Roman Catholic, Rome, safety, San Eustachio, San Marco, San'Eustachio, Spizzico, St Mark's Square, The Last Judgment, Top 5, top 5 attractions, tourism, tourist, tourist attractions, Travel, Travel Diary, vacation, Vatican, Vatican City, Vatican Museum, Venice
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Note: Travel Diary has been updated! Pictures to be added
I’m having the time of my life on this awesome 3-week European journey, and I’ve tried to put in the effort to write as much as possible during this time, even if it’s just to keep the creative juices flowing and so I don’t ever forget this amazing adventure.
However, I’m falling a little behind with my Travel Diary entries. I just completed my lengthy entry on Rome (still no pictures, unfortunately, but I’ll try and add some soon), though I have been in Switzerland the last couple of days and from tomorrow will be in Germany! I’ve finished listening to Stephen King’s brilliant On Writing but I’m still yet to write a review (but more importantly, jot down some helpful tips from King that I’ll want to employ in my own writing from this point forward).
In my last post I wrote about this wonderful little cake store near the Colosseum called Cristalli Di Zucchero. Anyway, I thought I’d add a few more thoughts about Italy and Vatican City before I forget it all!
Must-see attractions
I visited 4 cities in Italy: Pisa, Florence, Venice and Rome. I’d say Venice is the prettiest, with its beautiful turqoise canals, clean, narrow streets and lack of modern architecture. Rome, of course, is a must visit because of its history, the abundance of attractions, and Vatican City. Florence is very nice, kind of charming and relaxed in its own way, and Pisa is just good for the Leaning Tower.
Of all the places I visited in Italy, my top 5 attractions (in descending order) are:
5. San Marco (St Mark’s Square) – a massive square and a world heritage site in Venice and home to Basilica Di San Marco. Moreover, the journey through the canals to get there may be as amazing as the place itself.
4. Galleria dell’Accademia – in Florence, home of Michelangelo’s David, a truly magnificent masterpiece. See it if you plan on seeing just one sculpture.
3. National Monument of Victor Emmanuel II (or Altare della Patria or Il Vittoriano for short) – in Rome, very close to the Coloseum. Big, white and not ancient, but amazing to look at nonetheless. Plus you can walk up all those stairs to the top where you can enjoy the best views of Rome!
2. Vatican City – corridor after corridor of art in the Vatican Museum (and the most famous ones in the Sistine Chapel) and St Peter’s Basilica are unforgettable regardless of your religion. Just make sure you buy tickets in advance for the Museum if you want to avoid the long queues.
1. Palantine Hill – the archaeological site next to the Colosseum in Rome. Head around the walls to the North-Western side and look down from above.
Pizza
Pizza is everywhere and we had it at least once a day (fat city). It’s difficult to find BAD pizza in Italy, but some are clearly better than others. Prices can also vary significantly, from a couple of Euros a slice in corner stores to twenty-plus in posh restaurants. Chances are they won’t taste all that different. The best ones we had were actually from the small shops where you buy a slice and eat it standing on the side. The worst would be from chain store restaurants that look too neat and touristy. However, the most amazing tasting ones we had were actually from a takeout joint called Spizzico, at Roma Termini station.
Most pizzas we came across were pretty authentic – meaning tomato base, cheese, and one or two simple toppings such as mushroom, prosciutto or sausage. None of the crazy toppings you’d find at Pizza Hut or Dominos. However, a common problem (for me at least) was that they were too salty, especially the tomato base. It seems they are a bit inconsistent in this regard. You can get two pizzas from the same place and one could be just right and the other too salty.
Gelato
We (well, my wife) are big gelato fans. There are plenty in Italy, just about on every touristy street. The majority taste pretty similar, to be honest, but prices vary. €2 for a small cone would be a decent price, but some can charge as much as €3.50 for a single scoop.
The best and cheapest we had was at Old Bridge Gelato (address: Viale dei Bastioni di Michelangelo 5) just around the corner from the Vatican Museum. The smallest cone is just €1.30 (and the next up is €1.50). The gelato is top notch and you can get up to 3 flavours regardless of size of cone – plus you can get free cream on top! Here is a review of the place.
The crepe place next door is very good too.
Coffee
I’m not the biggest coffee fan but my wife likes to look for good coffee places. There are quite a few in Italy, but some can be quite expensive. The best one we went to came highly recommended, and it’s very close to the Pantheon. It’s called Caffé San’ Eustachio and it is quite small and seemingly always crowded. You order at the counter then give your receipt to the coffee makers. Most people stand and finish their cup, though a few take them to the limited seats outside. I found this blog post about the place.
Safety
Before I came to Italy I was warned by family members that it was a dangerous place. People get mugged all the time. If you don’t keep an eye on your bags they could disappear any second. Hoards of kids crowd you in and pick your pockets. Stuff like that.
Fortunately, I experienced none of the above. Not even close. For the most part, I found Italy to be seemingly quite safe. Of course, I took the necessary precautions, such as not going out too late, keeping my belongings zipped up when I go out, and keep to the main streets. The street vendors were actually quite nice and polite, totally unlike the thugs we encountered in Paris that try to force you to buy their crap.
Vatican City
Visiting Vatican City was a dream come true. I’m not a Catholic, but I had always been fascinated by its history, and more importantly, the amazing architecture and priceless art works. In that regard, the visit was everything I had expected.
What I didn’t expect were the long lines (silly me) and the number of people who tried to push in and sneak to the front. When everyone’s waiting patiently, seeing people who blatantly break the rules can be frustrating. So be smart and purchase tickets in advance to avoid the hassle.
Another thing I found disappointing was the over-commercialization of the place. Sure enough, the tickets were expensive, but I didn’t expect there to be so much merchandise everywhere I went! And people (I assume mostly the religious ones) were lapping up the over-priced products like Pope pens and pendants like crazy! Don’t they make enough money from the entry tickets already? It almost felt like they were exploiting people’s faiths.
Most troubling were the school groups, where the guides would point to various paintings like The Last Judgment and try to scare kids into Catholicism by telling them they’ll go to hell if they don’t do this and that. Surely there has to be a better way to teach religion to children?
All Roads Should Lead to this Cake Store in Rome March 22, 2009
Posted by pacejmiller in Food, Travel.Tags: Basel, cake, cake store, cakes, Coloseum, Colosseo, Colosseum, Cristalli Di Zucchero, holiday, Italy, Rome, Switzerland, Travel, Travel Diary, vacation, Vatican, Vatican City
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Update: pictures added!
Today marked the end of the Italian leg of our 1st anniversary vacation (actually, today is our anniversary!) – and we are now in Switzerland, at the home town of Roger Federer, Basel. It just happened to be the last night of some crazy festival and so when we wandered out into the city streets we were deafened by the sound of thumping drums and ear-piercing trumpets and flutes and a whole bunch of instruments I couldn’t name. People were just about everywhere and in every street, pacing up and down in small groups to parade-like masses. It was fun, eye-opening and kinda scary all at the same time.
Anyway, since my last post, we had completed our adventures in Italy. Rome and Vatican City had been at the top of my travel destinations list forever, and I can finally cross them off after being wowed by just about everything I had seen over the last 3 days or so. For those interested in exactly what I got up to, please wait until I’ve had the time to update the Travel Diary section. I would also really like to post some pictures up in these posts and the Travel Diary to give everything a more realistic feel, but it’s hard to find time on a trip like this!
However, I just wanted to give a little plug to this little cake store my wife and I stumbled across when were in Rome and went to visit the Colosseum. It was one of those ‘blink and you’ll miss it ‘ type of places, but the cakes and chocolates there were absolutely divine. If you happen to be around the Colosseum, do yourself a favour and check it out!
For those that haven’t been to Rome before, there are pizza shops and gelato bars on almost every street corner of the tourist disticts. There are also plenty of patisseries that sell bread and tarts (especially ones with nuts). But you’d be hard pressed to find a shop that dedicates itself purely to delicately designed cakes, the ones you common to Paris or Tokyo, where you can enjoy an afternoon snack with a cup of coffee or after a flavoursome meal.

Cristalli Di Zucchero in Rome
Anyway, the place is called Cristalli Di Zucchero, and it has a one page website here with address details (turns out it’s a different address to the one we went to). Basically, if you walk past the Colosseum (through Arco di Constantino) and head South all the way along Via di S. Gregorino, then curl around the outside of the walled archaeological site (Palatino or Palantine Hill) and head West along Via de Cerchi until you reach the South West corner of the site. The store, which has no signs outside (basically just a hole in the wall) is just across from this little cathedral hidden inside the wall on Via di San Teodoro, just as you turn the South West corner and before you reach Arco di Giano.
We were actually looking for a toilet, and the shopkeeper was nice enough to let us use their one. We returned the favour by purchasing 3 cakes. The highlight was this unassuming one we were recommended called Williams (white dome with chocolate streaks on top), and it was sensational.
Okay, more on this and pizza in my next post…and maybe a bit on my visit to the Vatican too.
PS: I’m still trying to complete my review of Stephen King’s On Writing (which I finally finished) and update my Travel Diary for the Rome and Vatican City.

Mmmm...cakes...


'Williams' was sensational










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